Not a "kit" per se, but springs, balls and o-rings are available through Toyota. GL Ed. Joined Feb 15, Messages 3, Location Tucson. Degnol said:. Click to expand I've never needed to replace parts on them. I have seen the dial gasket to the outer housing smashed if it has been taken apart before and not assembled correctly. Marlin has this gasket.
Other than the spring and ball i've never seen hubs needing more unless it's missing. Someone posted this link a while back Thanks guys. I was just on MAF's site looking for seals and came across a blow up for the hubs showning gaskets and stuff. I don't know if they have all the parts though. I whine about paying the Spector prices as do many, but thank god they are around because sometimes we have no other choice. I couldn't find a center joint anywhere that had the housing included and finally found it at MAF for bucks, not a great price but at least I found one huh?
GL on the project. I might as well post the pirate link too. I actually think it's a better write up. Last edited: May 16, Im just trying to build some to get them ready for my cummins. Went on the marlin site and didnt see anything about the stuff you mentioned?
Where is it? Joined Sep 28, Messages 3, Location Crawlorado. Great info, this needs to be in the FAQ. The links were great descriptions on how to rebuild them but none answered the original question.
The only parts available at the dealer are the O-ring and gaskets, period. One can of course buy a complete new assembly from Toy for silly money or you can always go used. I found a source for the small spring and ball for the detent at a local hobby shop and have documanted it here in the past.
It was part of a two-speed transmision rebuild kit, IIRC. You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads. B-Z Rebuilders Replies 4 Views Anyone know what hubs these are? Replies 19 Views Today at AM Drake2. Make a note of how the springs, pawl, and clutch are installed, as they must be reassembled in the same manner. Under the hub cover, a snap ring keeps the handle in place. This snap ring can be removed with needle-nose or snap-ring pliers. Upon removing it, the handle can be separated from the cover.
Be mindful of the tiny steel ball and spring in the handle: if these pieces are lost, some improvisation will be necessary to replace them. Also check the O-ring seal around the handle: if it's ragged or worn, it should be replaced. At this point, clean and inspect all of the parts of the hub.
If any water, grit, or other foreign material is in the hub, it should be thoroughly inspected for other flaws. Tearing down the hub body is not required, as long as proper operation is verified and the old grease is removed. With everything cleaned, start reassembly by placing the spring and steel ball into the handle, then place the o-ring seal on the handle. Lightly grease the surfaces on the handle, including the outer edge where it rides on the cover, and the spring seat.
Then place the handle into the cover by lining up the steel ball with the detent in the cover and seating so the hub is in "Free".
Compress the snap ring and install it, then check for proper operation of the handle in the cover. The tension spring is then installed in to the clutch. The spring end should be aligned with the groove in the clutch, and the pawl placed over the spring if disassembled with one large tab holding the bent spring end.
Then, with the large spring seated on the hub cover, compress the clutch on to the cover by aligning the tabs with the handle grooves. Grease the clutch, inner hub body, and the splined sleeve prior to reinstallation, and place a gasket on the hub body. For a spare hub, at this point you can assemble the cover to the hub body; or if this is an on-vehicle service, the hub body should be installed on the rotor prior to installing the cover.
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